You might consider pulling the injectors and either have them cleaned or tested to make sure they aren’t clogged, but since the misfires were across multiple cylinders I am more inclined to believe it is an issue with the fuel pressure regulator or fuel rail on bank 1. Any idea where to start? In some cases, an electrical issue could cause several systems to fail due to incorrect voltage, too much resistance, etc. Make sure the terminals are tight and free of corrosion. My other question is could they have bypassed the surge protector on the ECU when they replaced the starter thus causing the ECU failure? can a bad battery connection show as a ECU problem on a diagnostic test just wondering as the RAC told me to get rid of my car Thanks for your help . So, look out for the early warning signs of a malfunctioning ECU and then have your battery examined right away. Going up hills is when it’ll start misfiring. after changing the spark plugs and ignition coil packs I was still getting the failure. My car can start perfectly fine one day and the next not start at all completely dead no radio no lights nothing which can last a few days and out the blue starts again. The Service Stabilitrak code recently started going off, then the brake code and the ABS code, then all of a sudden that little car with the wrench inside came on and the car drove in safe mode. Wondering if maybe you could explain why when I test a specific sensor on my ECM(ECU) for my 2010 Subaru Forester I am not getting the same results as the dealerships Special Scan Monitor. Any advice would be appreciated . Honda Civic Gen Tech and Builds / Show Offs. I’ve had a car that wouldn’t start because the corrosion was so bad. If you still have your original fuel pump, you could try switching back and checking the pressure to see if it’s similar. You may want to test your IAC just to confirm it’s not the problem. ECU acting up do you think? I have a 2019 Hyundai Kona with less than 10k mileage. All three lights won’t go off and I started to feel the engine having a hard time moving from standstill every time the vehicle senses the car is in a sloping position. My LT fuel trims are pegged at 25% and the short terms are hovering around 0 at idle. If you were to ever have a bad ECU, then many noticeable symptoms would present themselves.

Hey Sean, just an update… found remanufactured injectors and ECU at an affordable price. We changed the battery and alternator same problems exists. However, I think it is more likely that there is a parasitic drain. I think the ecu is bad, the truck stalls with no spark, the check engine light is on, but it has no codes, I tried to reset the ecu all the different ways. One of these sensors is the override sensor which manages how many volts the ECU will receive. Can you tell me if the RAC done a diagnostic on my car and it came up with ECU problem Can a battery cause that to come up as a ECU. It’s hard to throw out too many ideas without more information. It’s really hard to say without knowing the initial state of the van. Am I experiencing symptoms from two separate issues? A car that shuts down after a 1 second warning, to me, is extremely dangerous especially when driving in the fast lane on a motorway and it beggars belief that a big company like Citroen do not put a failsafe in place? Over $5000 later I get my van back. I’m sorry to hear the problem is intermittent. If you own a Honda Civic and are having problems with your Honda ECU, ECU Testing may be able to help - we are aware of the common ECU Faults with different Honda models. P0506 and P0507. It might be in limp mode. I have a DS5 and it has cut out on me with only an inadequate 1 second warning of engine failure on 2 occasions over the past 2 year. He also said there is a possible internal fault in the PCM. ECU is located by the passenger side floor either under carpet by where your fit go or closer to the door ish.

If you heard a loud pop, something should be obviously broken or out of place. I’m still getting the same codes though. The engine light won’t shut off. it turns over though. I am thinking that it might be the ECU. This Honda Jazz engine management ECU will commonly cause a constant engine misfire, engine management warning light and stored fault codes for injector circuit malfunctions... Failure of the Honda Civic i-Shift clutch actuator will prevent gear selection and even prevent the vehicle from starting, commonly storing fault code P0810 - Clutch Position Problem. Drive a couple of laps around your neighborhood to bring the motor to operating temperature. Do note that fuses probably won’t protect the ECU if there is a bad connection on the ECU’s circuit board that is causing some short or open circuit. It is also often referred to as the PCM (powertrain control module) or ECM (engine control module). Scan for codes, they may give you a clue what the problem is. Last time it was the main fusebox that needed replacing but this time it looks like the ECU will need replacing and Citroen have quoted £8000 to get it fixed if they don’t find another cause.

However, after a number of years, these seals tend to become worn out. However, what you may wonder about is why the ECU malfunctioned in the first place. Once the thermostat cools back down below its designated temperature, the wax solidifies and the valve closes again via a return spring. I have a Peugeot 207cc 07plate. Check all fuses to make sure none are blown. The average ECU is expected to have at least 9 volts, but preferably 12 volts. Well, I agreed to have them test it further because these codes only go off intermittantly then stop for a couple days, then start going off again. Sorry just thought of something else too… I did replace the fuel regulator and it seems to be working… but when I was doing the smoke test a little smoke was weeping out the very top of the regulator. Mechanic told he has no idea why fuel trims off and that I should change the ECM. Sounds like a short somewhere. Then all of a sudden the #6 misfire went away as 2 other misfires appeared. Even after I switched coil, plug and wire it would still misfire.

last week I got another check engine light with p0301 & p0306, cylinder 1 & 6 misfire. Perform a fuel pressure test to make sure you’re getting adequate pressure at the fuel rails, particularly on bank 1 where the code was thrown. After changing the fuel pump 3 times before getting one to operate at somewhat of that 55psi range.

The cover contains a diagram of the fuses, which tells you what each fuse is used for and the amperage. The engine and drivetrain are the most dependent on the ECU. When the wax up it melts and expands, pushing the valve open.

The codes I get are P0170, P0174 and a p0300. Input and output speed sensors are both inside the trans requiring pan removal so I’ve not gone in there yet. There is wiring that runs into the harness of the ECU where you can check the voltage amount. I would get a second opinion on that diagnosis.

The ECU regulates virtually every important system and function in your vehicle. They tried to jump start it (don’t know if smth stupid happened there, incorrect connections) and when I went there I air-sprayed at ECM cables and drops of water came out. I have a jeep liberty ‘05. I am skeptical of changing injectors like that without retuning… that may be your issue. I have 07 Yukon with a 5.3 in it. It never hurts to test the health of your battery and alternator before diving into an electrical issue either. It idle is a little rough and has no power. Nothing would work not even the locks on the doors. If this is the case... well I know nothing about ECU's and wouldn't even know where to start, and the best part is that my bro doesn't even know the ECU that is in the car.

If that doesn’t work do you think its possible that I did something wrong when installing the injectors? Thank you I will do that.

Hi My Toyota corolla automatic developed a problem where the accelerator is not changing. Why I think it maybe the ECU is because I keep loosing signal on my Tech 2. They started it, moved it to the first washing step and then they said it didn’t start. i know little about the electronics, how would I be able to diagnose what the cause could be as far as an improper voltage? If your vehicle uses OBD1 you can still scan for codes, but it’s done using a jumper wire between pins instead of a scan tool. 3. 2. I have them replace the transmission with a brand new one.

Most thermostats are mechanical devices, not really sensors. The original injectors were, I think, 48-50psi to open and they were also a 2 hole injectors. If you don’t have a smoke tester, you can build your own.

Fast forward just 6 weeks. When I reset the computer via battery disconnect, it idles perfectly for a while. Got a mercedes cla amg 45 and took it for polish shampoo. My 2015 Nissan Altima was having issues. Checked the back pressure of the one cat and it was good. (Here’s What Happens), 4 Symptoms of a Bad Diesel Glow Plug (and Replacement Cost), 8 Best Mechanic Tool Sets for the DIY Mechanic, Car Immobilizer: Basic Function and Bad Symptoms, https://www.club3g.com/threads/how-to-testing-iac-idle-air-control.140906/. I’m driving my van when all of a sudden the battery light came on. Good luck. If any of the cells in your car battery are dead, then your ECU is going to fail soon afterward. It sounds like you have your bases covered with the simple tests; you certainly covered all my initial suggestions. Took it to another mechanic who looked at it and told me he has no idea what’s wrong with it but doesn’t think its the ECM. Hi Sean.. thanks for the reply. Just google “diy smoke tester” and find one that works for you.

Engine runs great but, auto trans will not engage regardless of shifter position. from what you’ve listed here I’m guessing that the voltage is too much or too little and shorting out the ecu. I am totally at a loss… please help, thanks. Maybe this is the problem??? Strong compensation one way or the other could mean a vacuum leak, clogged or leaky injector, etc. The thing is I took it to mercedes repair shop they opened the ECM and said they found corrosion in it and that it’s hard to define the actual reason for the failure. How did the dealership identify the ECU as the root cause? Make sure the o-rings on #2 and #6 are sealing properly. Here’s what I have done within 8 months ago… I was told that the fuel pressure for the T model Avalanche is to be 55psi or higher. I have a 2009 Saturn Vue with 132,000. So I dont think IAC is my problem unfortunately. When doing diagnostic work, take care to not assume a component is good until you have tested and verified that the component is working properly. I change the TPS but still, could it be the ECM? Didn’t check the other cat though. Related: How to Clean Corroded Battery Terminals. In your professional opinion is this sufficient enough? With a fuse puller or tweezers, pull the fuse locate… Transmission dropped out of gear and won’t go back into gear.



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